Where to eat in the Cornish town of Fowey
Rolling down a hill in a sparkling blue estuary cluttered with floating boats, Fowey is one of Cornwall’s most postcard-perfect towns. Despite its small size, it is also one of the most exciting for foodies. You can hardly take a few steps without stumbling upon another great place to eat and drink, from upscale local seafood establishments to atmospheric pubs.
It was Fitzroy who put Fowey on the culinary map in the summer of 2019. Restaurateurs Jeremie Cometto and David Gingell – the duo behind North London’s cult hotspots, including Jolene and Westerns Laundry – were wowed by a former converted bank in a corner of downtown Fowey. And with the opening of Fitzroy came a large number of savvy diners; even now you will have to book well in advance for the chance to feast on smart plates featuring fine Cornish produce, like crab curry with cauliflower and runny egg, or turbot with meat with lobster and spring onion sauce, all washed down with natural wines.
Fitzroy isn’t the only newcomer to Fowey. Just over a year old, the tiny Leopard + Goat Farm is a bean-to-bar brand of chocolate that also produces artisan hot chocolate. Choose from products like the Tanzanian Kokoa Kamili Organic or the Madagascan Sambirano Valley – as well as handmade donuts or sausage rolls filled with ganache and flavored with smoked cocoa. Visit in the early evening and the owner will happily serve you a glass of pet nat sparkling wine or a margarita.
A short walk away, Fowey Sweet Shop can be found along the central strip of Fore Street. Owner Darren Tatham gave the place a facelift in July 2019, after taking over from the couple who had run it for more than three decades. Despite the addition of elegant Kernow chocolate bars, made an hour from St Eval, one thing that hasn’t changed is the fudge, which is handmade in Looe. The delicious sea salt caramel, coated in dark chocolate, may be the bestseller, but the cream tea flavor – shortbread, curd fudge and a thick piece of Turkish delight, all topped with Belgian white chocolate – worth a try.
For more local, albeit tastier, treats stop by Kittows, a farmer and butchers / deli that have been around for nearly 150 years. Here you can buy ready-to-eat Cornwall Crab or Wild Garlic Campanelle Pasta from Cornwall Pasta, locally made olive oil and sea salt, Cornish yarg cheese and pÃ¢tÃ©s. hot – as well as meat from Kittows Farm. In front of the charcuterie, wicker baskets overflow with seasonal vegetables.
In warm weather, the pubs lining Fowey Quay – lined with sunny terraces – are a staple for an aperitif. But with the chill of autumn, there’s no better place for a pint than The Ship Inn on Trafalgar Square, the city’s oldest bar, dating back to 1570. Sip your St Austell ale surrounded by interior beams comfortable – all dimly lit nooks and stained glass windows. Is your stomach still rumbling? Feast on cider-breaded fish and chips or plump, wine-soaked mussels picked from the River Fowey a few yards away. It doesn’t get much more local than that.